| A | Abrasion Resistance – The degree by which a fabric is able to withstand loss of appearance through surface wear, rubbing, chafing, and other frictional actions. |
| Absorbency – The ability of a fabric to take in moisture. Absorbency is a very important property, which effects many other characteristics such as skin comfort, static build-up, shrinkage, stain removal, water repellency, and wrinkle recovery. |
| Acetate – A manufactured fiber formed by a compound of cellulose, refined from cotton linters and/or wood pulp, and acedic acid that has been extruded through a spinneret and then hardened. |
| Acrylic – A manufactured fiber derived from polyacrylonitrile. Its major properties include a soft, wool-like hand, machine washable and dryable, excellent color retention. Solution-dyed versions have excellent resistance to sunlight and chlorine degradation. |
| Air Permeability – The porosity of a fabric as estimated by the ease with which air passes through it. Air permeability measures the warmth of blankets, the air resistance of parachute cloth, the wind resistance of sailcloth, etc. as measured on standard testing equipment. |
| Algaecide – Kills algae. |
| Alpaca – A natural hair fiber obtained from the Alpaca sheep, a domesticated member of the llama family. The fiber is most commonly used in fabrics for dresses, suits, coats, and sweaters. |
| Angora – The hair of the Angora goat. Also known as Angora mohair. Angora may also apply to the fur of the Angora rabbit. However, according to the U.S. Federal Trade Commission, any apparel containing Angora rabbit hair must be labeled as “Angora rabbit hair” on the garment. |
| Anti-Bacterial (Anti-Microbial) – A fabric that has been chemically treated or a fiber that is created by incorporating the anti-bacterial chemical agent into the fiber formula, making the finished fiber or fabric resistant to, or inhibiting the growth of micro-organisms. |
| Antifungal – Inhibits or kills fungi. |
| Anti-Static – Can be either a fiber or fabric that does not allow the build-up of static electricity to occur when the fiber or fabric experiences friction or rubbing. |
| Aramid – A manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming substance is a long chain of synthetic polyamide in which at least 85% of the amide linkages are attached directly to two aromatic rings. Aramid fabrics are very strong and are resistant to high temperatures and extreme external forces. Aramid fabrics are used in thermally protective clothing; (i.e. coveralls, jackets, gloves, shirts, pants). U.S. FTC Definition: A manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming substance is a long-chain synthetic polyamide in that is at least 85% of the amide linkages are attached directly to two aromatic rings. |
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| B | Back Length – The dimension on a garment taken from the center collar attaching seam to the bottom of the garment, or in the case of a coverall, to the top of the waistband. |
| Back Waist Length – The dimension on a body, taken from the top of the back bone at the base of the neck to the waistline. |
| Bactericide – Kills bacteria. |
| Bacteriostat – Doesn’t necessarily mean that it kills bacteria. A stat means that it may simply be slowing growth or holding the death to growth rates of bacteria (same for fungal stats) more or less in equilibrium. Inhibits bacteria growth. |
| Ballistic – A thick woven fabric that is extremely abrasion resistant and tough; has a denier of about 2000, and is used in apparel, packs and gear. |
| Band (Continuous/Grown-on) – Pant panels that extend to the top of the pant and are folded over without an outside band. A separate inside band lining is sewn through the pant and has an interlining. |
| Band (Pasted-on/Folder-set) – A separate band sewn on the pant with stitching that shows on the outside at the top and bottom. |
| Band (Rocap) – A separate band of body fabric sewn on and turned down so the attaching seam is not visible. Inside the band is a separate lining—made from pcketing fabric—and interlining. |
| Barré – An imperfection, characterized by a ridge or mark running in the crosswise or lengthwise directions of the fabric. Barrés can be caused by tension variations in the knitting process, poor quality yarns, problems during the finishing process. |
| Bartack – To reinforce a seam with a bar of stitches that provides a more durable seam end. (Commonly used at points of strain.) |
| Base Layer – The apparel in contact with your skin. The purpose of the base layer is to keep you warm/cool and dry. |
| Basket Weave – A variation of the plain weave construction, formed by treating two or more warp yarns and/or two or more filling yarns as one unit in the weaving process. Yarns in a basket weave are laid into the woven construction flat, and maintain a parallel relationship. Both balanced and unbalanced basket weave fabrics can be produced. Examples of basket weave construction includes monk cloth and oxford cloth. |
| Bast Fiber – Strong, soft, woody fibers, such as flax, jute, hemp, and ramie, which are obtained from the inner bark in the stems of certain plants. |
| Batiste – A medium-weight, plain weave fabric, usually made of cotton or cotton blends. End-uses include blouses and dresses. |
| Bedford Cord – A cord cotton-like fabric with raised ridges in the lengthwise direction. Since the fabric has a high strength and a high durability, it is often used for upholstery and work clothes. |
| Beeze – Piping or cording formed at lower and inside pocket welts. |
| Besom – An edging or reinforcement around a pocket opening. |
| Bicomponent Fiber – Manufactured fiber made of continuous filaments, and made of two related components, each with different degrees of shrinkage. The result is a crimping of the filament, which makes the fiber stretchable. |
| Bleaching – A process of whitening fibers, yarns, or fabrics by removing the natural and artificial impurities to obtain clear whites for finished fabric, or in preparation for dyeing and finishing. The materials may be treated with chemicals or exposed to sun, air, and moisture. |
| Blend – A term applied to a yarn or a fabric that is made up of more than one fiber. In blended yarns, two or more different types of staple fibers are twisted or spun together to form the yarn. Examples of a typical blended yarn or fabric is polyester/cotton. |
| Bonding – The technique of permanently joining together two fabrics or layers of fabrics together by a bonding agent.into one package. The bonding of fibers in a single layer of material is called a web. Special adhesives, binders, or thin slices of foam may be used as the marrying agent. |
| Bonding – A process for adhesive laminating of two or more fabrics or fabric and a layer of plastic by means of a bonding agent (adhesives, plastics or cohesion). |
| Boucle – A knit or woven fabric made from a rough, curly, knotted boucle yarn. The fabric has a looped, knotted surface and is often used in sportswear and coats |
| Break – Point on the front edge of the garment at which the roll of the lapel begins. Usually at the same point as the lower end of the bridle. |
| Breath ability – The movement of water or water vapor from one side of the fabric to the other, caused by capillary action, wicking, chemical, or electrostatic action. Also known as moisture transport. |
| Broad Spectrum Antimicrobial – An antimicrobial that effectively controls or kills at least 3 of the basic microorganism groups. This term is important to help give a specific encompassing term to technologies that offer protection from the gamut of microorganisms, without the sometimes vague nature of the term antimicrobial, which could mean kills just one type or kills many types. |
| Broadcloth – A plain weave tightly woven fabric, characterized by a slight ridge effect in one direction, usually the filling. The most common broadcloth is made from cotton or cotton/polyester blends. |
| Brocade – A heavy, exquisite jacquard type fabric with an all-over raised pattern or floral design. Common end-uses include such formal applications as upholstery, draperies, and eveningwear. |
| Brushing – A finishing process for knit or woven fabrics in which brushes or other abrading devices are used on a loosely constructed fabric to permit the fibers in the yarns to be raised to create a nap on fabrics or create a novelty surface texture. |
| Bunting – Can be either a cotton or wool fabric, woven in a plain open weave, similar to cheesecloth, and dyed in the piece. Cotton bunting is often woven with plied yarns. Wool bunting is woven with worsted worsted yarns, using strong, wiry wool. |
| Burlap – A loosely constructed, heavy weight, plain weave fabric used as a carpet backing, and as inexpensive packaging for sacks of grain or rice. Also, as fashion dictates, burlap may also appear as a drapery fabric. |
| Burn-out – A brocade-like pattern effect created on the fabric through the application of a chemical, instead of color, during the burn-out printing process. (Sulfuric acid, mixed into a colorless print paste, is the most common chemical used.) Many simulated eyelet effects can be created using this method. In these instances, the chemical destroys the fiber and creates a hole in the fabric in a specific design, where the chemical comes in contact with the fabric. The fabric is then over-printed with a simulated embroidery stitch to create the eyelet effect. However, burn-out effects can also be created on velvets made of blended fibers, in which the ground fabric is of one fiber like a polyester, and the pile may be of a cellulosic fiber like rayon or acetate. In this case, when the chemical is printed in a certain pattern, it destroys the pile in those areas where the chemical comes in contact with the fabric, but leave the ground fabric unharmed. |
| Buttonhole (eyelet) – Formed by a contoured patch of zig-zag stitching, followed by a cut—a portion of which is circular. Eyelet buttonholes are usually used on heavy fabrics and/or with large buttons. A gimp or cord is usually contained within the stitches to provide a reinforcement along the edge of the hole. |
| Buttonhole (straight) – Formed by two pairs of straight, parallel rows of zigzag stitching, followed by a single, straight knife cut. Each end of the row of stitching is secured by a bartack. |
| Buttons – Specified by design, size, color, and type—such as brass, melamine, or pearl, buttons are either shanked (attached by passing threads through the shank’s eye) or holed (attached by passing threads through the button’s holes). |
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| C | Calendering – A process for finishing fabrics in which such special effects as high luster, glazing, embossing, and moiré are produced. |
| Calico – A tightly-woven cotton type fabric with an all-over print, usually a small floral pattern on a contrasting background color. Common end-uses include dresses, aprons, and quilts. |
| Camel’s Hair – A natural fiber obtained from the hair of the Bactrian camel, a two-humped pack-carrying species. The fiber is used primarily in coats, sweaters, and suits. |
| Canvas – Cotton, linen, or synthetic fabric made with a basic plain weave in heavy and firm weight yarns for industrial or heavy duty purposes. Also referred to as “duck”, although the term “canvas” usually relates to the heavier, coarser constructions. |
| Capillary Action – A process by which liquids are drawn through the fabric and into pores found between fibers and yarns. |
| Carding – A process which eliminates fibers too short for inclusion in the spun yarn. The process also removes dirt and foreign matter still remaining in the fiber mass, and arranges the fibers into a very thin layer. |
| Cashmere – A luxury fiber obtained from the soft fleecy undergrowth of the Kashmir goat of Tibet, Mongolia, China, Iran, Iraq, and India. Most commonly used in sweaters, shawls, suits, coats, and dresses. |
| Cellulose – A material derived from the cell walls of certain plants. Cellulose is used in the production of many vegetable fibers, as well as being the major raw material component used in the production of the manufactured fibers of acetate, rayon, and triacetate. |
| Challis – A lightweight, soft plain weave fabric with a slightly brushed surface. The fabric is often printed, usually in a floral pattern. Challis is most often seen in fabrics made of cotton, wool, or rayon. |
| Chambray – A plain woven fabric that can be made from cotton, silk, or manufactured fibers, but is most commonly cotton. It incorporates a colored warp (often blue) and white filling yarns |
| Chenille – 1. A specialty yarn, characterized by a pile protruding on all sides, resembling a caterpillar. The yarn is produced by first weaving a fabric with a cotton or linen warp and a silk, wool, rayon, or cotton filling. The warp yarns are taped in groups of tightly woven filling yarns, which have been beaten in very closely. After weaving, the fabric is cut into strips between the yarn groups. Each cutting produces a continuous chenille yarn, which is then twisted, creating the chenille yarn, and giving the pile appearance on all sides of the yarn. The chenille yarn is used mainly for decorative fabrics, embroidery, tassels, and rugs. 2. A fabric woven from the chenille yarn. |
| Chiffon – A plain woven lightweight, extremely sheer, airy, and soft silk fabric, containing highly twisted filament yarns. The fabric, used mainly in evening dresses and scarves, can also be made from rayon and other manufactured fibers. |
| Chino – Classic all-cotton “Army twill” fabric made of combed two-ply yarns. Usually vat dyed, mercerized, and given a compressive shrinkage finish. Used traditionally for army uniforms, chino is now finding popularity sportswear and work clothes. |
| Chintz – Glazed plain weave cotton fabric with a tioghtly spun fine warp and a coarser slack twist filling, often printed with brightly colored flowers or stripes. Named from Hindu word meaning spotted. Several types of glazes are used in the finishing process. Some glazes wash out in laundering, but others such as resin finishes are permanent. Unglazed chintz is called cretonne. Chintz end-uses include draperies, slipcovers, skirts, and summer dresses, and shirts. |
| Chintz – A plain-weave fabric, which has been glazed to produce a polished look. Usually made of cotton, this fabric is most commonly used in blouses, dresses, draperies, and slipcovers. |
| Chlorinated Wool – Wool in the fiber, yarn, or fabric form which are treated chemically to decrease felting shrinkage and increase ability to take dyes. |
| Circular Knit – Weft knit fabric made on a circular needle-bed knitting machine, which produces fabric in tubular form. Common types include single or double knits. Seamless hosiery are also made on a circular knitting machine. Although allowances are made on the machine for knitting the welt and foot. See Knitting (Circular). |
| Cleaning – Hand operation in which the basting threads are removed from the garment; usually done prior to the final pressing. |
| Clo Value – A unit of thermal resistance. The insulation required to produce the necessary heat to keep an individual comfortable at 21 degrees Centigrade with air movement at .1 m/s. One clo is about equal to the insulation value of typical indoor clothing. |
| Closures – Items used to close openings in apparel and other consumer textile products, i.e. buttons, buckles, hook and eye, snaps and zippers. |
| Coated Fabrics – Fabrics that have been coated with a lacquer, varnish, rubber, plastic resin of polyvinyl chloride or polyethylene, or other substance to make them longer lasting or impervious to water or other liquids. |
| Collar – Two or more thicknesses of fabric attached to the neckhole opening to provide a firm and neat-appearing finish. |
| Collar (Banded) – The visible or panel portion of the collar is cut separately and attached to the neckband portion. This is normal dress shirt construction. |
| Collar (convertible) – The panel or visible portion of the collar and the neckband portion are cut as one piece, but folded once along the length to produce the appearance of a banded collar. |
| Collar (Lined) – A collar made by placing a piece of interlining between the two pieces of body fabric. |
| Collar (one piece) – A collar constructed from a single piece of fabric with the center fold forming the outer edge. |
| Collar (padding) – Attaching the under-collar to canvas with several rows of blindstitching. |
| Collar (sandwich) – A collar which has the top-collar inserted between the canvas and the under-collar. |
| Collar (topstitched) – A collar with an added row of stitching along the folded edges. |
| Collar (two-piece) – A collar formed by joining two identical pieces, inverting and sometimes topstitching along the folded edges. |
| Color Abrasion – Color changes in localized areas of a garment due to differential wear, such as the knees of blue jeans. Often evident in cross-dye shades of blends where durable press treatments are applied. Color abrasion is often called “frosting”. |
| Colorfastness – A term used to describe a dyed fabric’s ability to resist fading due to washing, exposure to sunlight, and other environmental conditions. |
| Combing – The combing process is an additional step beyond carding. In this process the fibers are arranged in a highly parallel form, and additional short fibers are removed, producing high quality yarns with excellent strength, fineness, and uniformity. |
| Comfort Stretch – The term given to the freedom of movement experienced in the wearing of a garment that contains spandex, or has stretch engineered into a yarn through mechanical stretch construction. |
| Commercial Standards – “Recorded voluntary standards of the trade.” The U.S. Bureau of Standards issues Commercial Standards which are not laws, but are important as accepted voluntary benchmarks of performance and quality by the industry. These standards are usually referred to by number, and spell out test procedures and minimum performance guidelines. |
| Composite Fabric – An engineered fabric made from two or more components. One component is often a strong fiber such as fiberglass, Kevlar®, or carbon fiber that gives the material its tensile strength, while another component (often called a matrix) is often a resin, such as polyester or epoxy that binds the fibers together. |
| Compression Fabric – A high tenacity stretch fabric which, when in a close fitting garment, provides muscles with a firm compression fit that lessons vibrations, reduces fatigue, and keeps muscles energized. The fabric is usually made in a knit construction, using a series of gradient fibers with an open knit inner surface to create a moisture transfer environment. |
| Compression Stretch – The name given to the expansive stretch that is created by the spandex fibers used in the development of a compression fabric. |
| Continuous Cure – A method of curing durable press garments which uses a moving conveyor system to carry garments into and out of the curing oven. Also known as continuous oven. |
| Continuous Filament – A long continuous, unbroken strand of fiber extruded from a spinneret in the form of a monofilament. Most manufactured fibers such as nylon, polyester, rayon, and acetate are made in continuous filament form. |
| Converter – A person or a company which buys grey goods and sells them as finished fabrics. A converter organizes and manages the process of finishing the fabric to a buyers’ specifications, particularly the bleaching, dyeing, printing, etc. |
| Converter – A person or a company which buys grey goods and sells them as finished fabrics. A converter organizes and manages the process of finishing the fabric to a buyers’ specifications, particularly the bleaching, dyeing, printing, etc. |
| Corduroy – A fabric, usually made of cotton, utilizing a cut-pile weave construction. Extra sets of filling yarns are woven into the fabric to form ridges of yarn on the surface. The ridges are built so that clear lines can be seen when the pile is cut |
| Core Yarn – A yarn in which one type of fiber is twisted or wrapped around another fiber that serves as a core. Core yarns are often used to make stretch fabrics where the core is spandex or rubber, and the outer wrapped fiber is a textured manufactured fiber such as polyester or nylon. |
| Core-Spun Yarns – Consist of a filament base yarn, with an exterior wrapping of loose fiber which has not been twisted into a yarn. Polyester filament is often wrapped with a cotton outer layer in order to provide the strength and resiliency of polyester, along with the moisture-absorbent aesthetics and dye affinity of cotton. Sewing thread as well as household and apparel fabrics are made from these yarns. |
| Cotton – A unicellular, natural fiber that grows in the seed pod of the cotton plant. Fibers are typically 1/2 inch to 2 inches long. The longest staple fibers, longer than 1 1/2 inch, including the Pima and Egyptian varieties, produce the highest quality cotton fabrics. |
| Count of Cloth – The number of warp ends and picks per inch in a woven fabric. If a cloth is 68 X 72, it means there are 68 ends and 72 picks per inch in a woven fabric. A cloth that has the same number of ends and picks per inch in woven goods is called a square cloth. 80-square percale, for example, has 80 warp ends and 80 picks per inch. |
| Course – The rows of loops or stitches running across a knitted fabric. Corresponds to the weft or filling in woven goods. |
| Crabbing – A treatment used to set the cloth and yarn twists permanently in woolens and worsted goods. |
| Crease Resistant Finish – Also referred to as CRF. Finishes used on fabrics that make them resistant to wrinkling and creasing, such as synthetic resin type finishes like durable press. Today some fabrics are made highly resistant to wrinkling through fiber blending and construction. |
| Crease Retention – The ability of a cloth to hold or pleat or a crease, which has been intentionally created, through the use of a heat treatment. Heat setting of thermoplastic fibers causes creases to be permanently set. |
| Crepe-back Satin – A satin fabric in which highly twisted yarns are used in the filling direction. The floating yarns are made with low twist and may be of either high or low luster. If the crepe effect is the right side of the fabric, the fabric is called satin-back crepe. |
| Crinoline – A lightweight, plain weave, stiffened fabric with a low yarn count (few yarns to the inch in each direction). |
| Crocking – The rubbing-off of dye from a fabric. Crocking can be the result of lack of penetration of the dyeing agent, the use of incorrect dyes or dyeing procedures, or the lack of proper washing procedures and finishing treatments after the dyeing process. |
| Crocking – The tendency of excess dyes to rub off. Napped and pile fabrics in deep colors are most likely to crock. Industry has set standards and tests to measure and prevent crocking. |
| Crotch Seam – The short seam from the back of the pants fly to the inseam. |
| Cuff (lined) – A cuff with interlining placed between the two pieces of body fabric. |
| Cuff (one-piece) – A two-ply cuff formed by folding over a single piece of fabric, usually with a lining in between. |
| Cuff (topstitched) – A cuff with an added row of stitching along the folded edges. |
| Cuff (two-piece) – A cuff in which two identical pieces of fabric, usually with a lining in between, are joined by a seam along the edge, then turned and sometimes topstitched near the folded edges. |
| Cuprammonium – A process of producing a type of regenerated rayon fiber. In this process, the wood pulp or cotton liners are dissolved in an ammoniac copper oxide solution. Bemberg rayon is a type of Cuprammonium rayon. |
| Curing – A baking process with the use of resin finishes, applying heat under carefully controlled conditions to a fabric or the garment, which cause a reaction in the finishing agents and make them work. Crease-retention, water repellency, wrinkle resistance, and durable press are examples of finishes that are cured. |
| Cut-on-cross – Fabric that is cut so that the warp runs horizontally across the garment piece. |
| Cut-on-fold – Fabric that is doubled, then cut. |
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| D | Damask – A glossy jacquard fabric, usually made from linen, cotton, rayon, silk, or blends. The patterns are flat and reversible. The fabric is often used in napkins, tablecloths, draperies, and upholstery. |
| Dart (cut-in) – An open dart cut in approximately 12″ under the armhole. |
| Dart (front or double) – An additional closed dart located toward the front edge of the garment, used to get maximum waist suppression. |
| Dart (panel) – A panel sewn full length to the front that is used for waist suppression. |
| Denier – A system of measuring the weight of a continuous filament fiber. In the United States, this measurement is used to number all manufactured fibers (both filament and staple), and silk, but excluding glass fiber. The lower the number, the finer the fiber; the higher the number, the heavier the fiber. Numerically, a denier is the equivalent to the weight in grams of 9,000 meters of continuous filament fiber. |
| Denier Per Filament – The size of an individual filament, or an individual staple fiber if it were continuous, The dpf is determined by dividing the yarn denier per filament by the number of filaments in the yarn. |
| Denim – True denim is a twill weave cotton-like fabric made with different colored yarns in the warp and the weft. Due to the twill construction, one color predominates on the fabric surface. |
| Dobby Weave – A decorative weave, characterized by small figures, usually geometric, that are woven into the fabric structure. Dobbies may be of any weight or compactness, with yarns ranging from very fine to coarse and fluffy. Standard dobby fabrics are usually flat and relatively fine or sheer. However, some heavyweight dobby fabrics are available for home furnishings and for heavy apparel |
| Doeskin – Generally used to describe a type of fabric finish in which a low nap is brushed in one direction to create a soft suede-like feel on the fabric surface. End-uses include billiard table surfaces and men’s’ sportswear. |
| Donegal Tweed – A medium to heavy, plain or twill weave fabric in which colorful yarn slubs are woven into the fabric. The name originally applied to a hand-woven woolen tweed fabric made in Donegal, Ireland. End-uses include winter coats and suits. |
| Dotted Swiss – A lightweight, sheer cotton or cotton blend fabric with a small dot flock-like pattern either printed on the surface of the fabric, or woven into the fabric. End-uses for this fabric include blouses, dresses, baby clothes, and curtains. |
| Double Cloth – A fabric construction, in which two fabrics are woven on the loom at the same time, one on top of the other. In the weaving process, the two layers of woven fabric are held together using binder threads. The woven patterns in each layer of fabric can be similar or completely different |
| Double Knit – A fabric knitted on a circular knitting machine using interlocking loops and a double stitch on a double needle frame to form a fabric with double thickness. It is the same on both sides. Today, most double knits are made of I5O denier polyester, although many lightweight versions are now being made using finer denier yarns and blends of filament and spun yarns. |
| Double Knit – A weft knit fabric in which two layers of loops are formed that cannot be separated. A double knit machine, which has two complete sets of needles, is required for this construction. |
| Double Weave – A woven fabric construction made by interlacing two or more sets of warp yarns with two or more sets of filling yarns. The most common double weave fabrics are made using a total of either four or five sets of yarns. |
| Down – The soft, fluffy fiber or underfeathers of ducks, geese, or other water fowl. Used primarily for insulation in outerwear garments. |
| Duck – A tightly woven, heavy, plain-weave, bottom-weight fabric with a hard, durable finish. The fabric is usually made of cotton, and is widely used in men’s and women’s slacks, and children’s play clothes. |
| Durability – The ability of a fabric to resist wear through continual use. |
| Durable Press – A treatment applied to the fabric in the finishing process in which it maintains a smooth attractive appearance, resists wrinkling, and retains creases or pleats during laundering. |
| Durable Water Repellent (DWR) – Fabrics that retain their durability and their ability to repel water after wearing, washing, and cleaning. Typically involves a fabric with a coating |
| Dye (Piece) – Dyeing of the fabric into solid colors after weaving or knitting. |
| Dye (Yarn) – Dyeing of the yarn into solid colors before weaving or knitting. |
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| E | Edge – The front margin of the garment that extends from front corner to front corner. |
| Edge Tape – A tape sewn along the front edge of a coat from top of the lapel to bottom of the facing. On less expensive coats, this tape starts at the bottom of the lapel (called the breakline). The tape is usually sewn with an edge-knife machine. |
| Elasticity – The ability of a fiber or fabric to return to its original length, shape, or size immediately after the removal of stress. |
| Embossing – A calendering process in which fabrics are engraved with the use of heated rollers under pressure to produce a raised design on the fabric surface. |
| Embroidery – An embellishment of a fabric or garment in which colored threads are sewn on to the fabric to create a design. Embroidery may be done either by hand or machine. |
| Encapsulation – A process in which the fibers of a fabric are coated with a filmy substance to create certain high performance qualities, such as breathability. |
| Ergonomic Seaming – This apparel construction technology is aimed at maximizing comfort and ease of movement. The key feature of this seaming technology is that the seams are constructed ergonomically. Therefore, the seams flow according to the body’s natural movements, regardless of the type of activity engaged in by the wearer. The seams are placed away from potential pressure points, in order to maximize comfort and movement. |
| Ergonomics – The study of improving a garment design by enhancing the wearers’ comfort, performance, or health. |
| Eyelet – A type of fabric which contains patterned cut-outs, around which stitching or embroidery may be applied in order to prevent the fabric from raveling. |
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| F | Face Finished Fabrics – Fabrics which have surface treatments that provide a variety of looks and effects on the fabric surface. These include brushing, sanding, sueding, etc. The warp knit industry is specially innovative with face finishing techniques. |
| Facing – A piece of fabric that is sewn to the collar, front opening, cuffs, or arms eye of a garment to create a finished look. |
| Faille – A glossy, soft, finely-ribbed silk-like woven fabric made from cotton, silk, or manufactured fibers |
| Fell – To join two pieces of material with the edges folded together using double needle stitching. |
| Felt – A non-woven fabric made from wool, hair, or fur, and sometimes in combination with certain manufactured fibers, where the fibers are locked together in a process utilizing heat, moisture, and pressure to form a compact material. |
| Fiber – The basic entity, either natural or manufactured, which is twisted into yarns, and then used in the production of a fabric. |
| Fiberfill – Specially engineered manufactured fibers, which are used as filler material in pillows, mattresses, mattress pads, sleeping bags, comforters, quilts, and outerwear |
| Filament – A manufactured fiber of indefinite length (continuous), extruded from the spinneret during the fiber production process. |
| Filling – In a woven fabric, the yarns that run cross the fabric from selvage to selvage, and which run perpendicular to the warp or lengthwise yarns. Also referred to as the weft. |
| Findings – Any extra items attached to a garment during the manufacturing process. This can include trims, buttons, hooks, snaps, or embellishments. |
| Finished Fabric – A fabric that has gone through all the necessary finishing processes, and is ready to be used in the manufacturing of garments. These processes include bleaching, dyeing, printing, heat setting, etc. |
| Flame Resistant – Fabrics treated with special chemical agents or finishes to make them resistant to burning. Today many fabrics achieve this property by using fibers that have this property built directly into the polymer. A fabric is considered flame resistant if it passes federal specifications for specific end-uses. |
| Flame Retardant – A chemical applied to a fabric, or incorporated into the fiber at the time of production, which significantly reduces a fabric’s flammability. |
| Flannel – A medium-weight, plain or twill weave fabric that is typically made from cotton, a cotton blend, or wool. The fabric has a very soft hand, brushed on both sides to lift the fiber ends out of the base fabric and create a soft, fuzzy surface. End-uses include shirts and pajamas. |
| Flannelette – A medium-weight, plain weave fabric with a soft hand, usually made from cotton. The fabric is usually brushed only on one side, and is lighter weight than flannel. End-uses include shirts and pajamas. |
| Flax – The plant from which cellulosic linen fiber is obtained. Linen is used in apparel, accessories, draperies, upholstery, tablecloths, and towels. |
| Fleece – The wool shorn from any sheep, or from any animal in the wool category. |
| Fleece Fabric – A lightweight fabric with a thick, heavy fleece-like surface. It may be a pile or napped fabric, or either woven or knit construction. End uses include coats, jackets, blankets, etc. Fleece fabrics are available in a variety of constuctions: 1) Polarfleece® is the original fleece fabric, developed in 1979, by Malden Mills. It is typically used for non-technical garments, and it is only available at Malden Mills®; 2) Polartec®, also developed by Malden Mills, was created for today’s high-performance technical garments, which provides enhanced durability warmth, wind resistance, breathability and weather protection. |
| Flocking – A type of raised decoration applied to the surface of a fabric in which an adhesive is printed on the fabric in a specific pattern, and then finely chopped fibers are applied by means of dusting, air-brushing, or electrostatic charges. The fibers adhere only to the areas where the adhesive has been applied, and the excess fibers are removed by mechanical means. |
| Foulard – A lightweight twill-weave fabric, made from filament yarns like silk, acetate, polyester, with a small all-over print pattern on a solid background. The fabric is often used in men’s ties. |
| Four-way Stretch – A fabric that stretches both on the crosswise and lengthwise grains of the fabric. It is the same as two-way stretch. |
| Front(stitched down) – A front the has a double-turned hem that is stiched down full length of the front. The term may also refer to the shell (outside) front of self-goods. |
| Full-cut – Not tapered. |
| Fungicide – Kills fungi. |
| Fungistat – Inhibits fungal growth. |
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| G | Gabardine – A tightly woven, twilled, worsted fabric with a slight diagonal line on the right side. Wool gabardine is known as a year-round fabric for business suiting. Polyester, cotton, rayon, and various blends are also used in making gabardine. |
| Gauge – A measurement most commonly associated with knitting equipment. It can mean the number of needles per inch in a knitting machine. However, in full fashioned hosiery and sweater machines, the number of needles per 1-1/2 inches represents the gauge. |
| Gauze – A thin, sheer plain-weave fabric made from cotton, wool, silk, rayon, or other manufactured fibers. End-uses include curtains, apparel, trimmings, and surgical dressings. |
| Georgette – A sheer lightweight fabric, often made of silk or from such manufactured fibers as polyester, with a crepe surface. End-uses include dresses and blouses. |
| Geotextiles – Manufactured fiber materials made into a variety of fabric constructions, and used in a variety civil engineering applications. |
| Gingham – A medium weight, plain weave fabric with a plaid or check pattern. End-uses include dresses, shirts, and curtains. |
| Glass Fiber – An inorganic fiber which is very strong, but has poor flexibility and poor abrasion resistance. Glass will not burn and will not conduct electricity. It is impervious to insects, mildew, and sunlight. Today, the primary use of glass fiber is in such industrial applications as insulation or reinforcement of composite structures. |
| Gorge – The break between the collar and the lapel. |
| Greige Goods – An unfinished fabric, just removed from a knitting machine or a loom. Also called grey goods. |
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| H | Hand – The way the fabric feels when it is touched. Terms like softness, crispness, dryness, silkiness are all terms that describe the hand of the fabric. |
| Hard Shell – A high-impact, abrasion-resistant outer fabric, which provides protection from the environment. |
| Heat Set Finish (Heat Sealing) – A process of heat finishing that will stabilize many manufactured fiber fabrics in order that there will not be any subsequent change in shape or size. Heat setting is used to permanently impart a crease, a pleat, or durability into a fabric or garment—a finish that will remain through repeated washings and dry cleanings. |
| Heather – A yarn that is spun using pre-dyed fibers. These fibers are blended together to give a particular look. (For example, black and white may be blended together to create a grey heathered yarn.) The term, heather, may also be used to describe the fabric made from heathered yarns. |
| Heavy Weight – Also called expedition weight. Most often use din base layers. Thick and warm, it is usually brushed on the inside for warmth and wicking, and smooth on the outside to protect. |
| Hem (clean) – The double fold of fabric secured with a row of stitching with the raw edge of the fabric buried within the fold. |
| Hem (raw) – A single fold of fabric secured with a row of stitching, leaving the raw edge of the fabric exposed. |
| Hemp – >A coarse, durable bast fiber obtained from the inner bark of the hemp plant. Used primarily in twines and cordages, and most recently apparel. |
| Herringbone – A variation on the twill weave construction in which the twill is reversed, or broken, at regular intervals, producing a zig-zag effect. |
| High Loft – A term given to a fiber structure that contains more air then fiber. It is a lofty, low-density material that is used in such applications as fiberfill, insulation, etc. |
| High Visability Fabrics – Fabrics that contain fluorescent materials in order to make the wearer visible in dim and dark lights. These fabrics have the ability to reflect on-coming lights, which cause them to glow in the dark. |
| Hollow Fiber – Manufactured fiber made with a hollow center. |
| Hollow Filament Fibers – Manufactured, continuous filament fibers that have a center void, which has been created through the introduction of air or other gas in the polymer solution, or by melt spinning through specially designed spinnerets during production. |
| Houndstooth Check – A variation on the twill weave construction in which a broken check effect is produced by a variation in the pattern of interlacing yarns, utilizing at least two different colored yarns. |
| Hydrophilic Fibers – Fibers that absorb water easily, take longer to dry, and require more ironing. |
| Hydrophobic Fibers – Fibers that lack the ability to absorb water. |
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| I | Infusion Technology – An infused polymer construction process that reinforces the fabric of outerwear garments in the places where they take the most abuse: zipper and pocket flaps, and other high-abrasion areas. The technology blends polymers, penetrates deep into the inner fibers, and surrounds them to form a permanent bond. this tough, resilient matrix ensures a highly wear-resistant surface while allowing the fabric to remain lightweight and flexible. The infused polymer process eliminates the need for heavier-weight abrasion overlays, tapes anhd bindings, and adds increased strength to the most crucial points on the garment, which dramatically extends the life of the garment. |
| Inseam – The distance from the bottom of a trouser leg to the crotch. The measurement is taken along the inside leg seam that joins the front and the back leg panels. |
| Insulation – With respect to a fabric, a material that protects from the loss of warmth or the penetration of cold. |
| Interfacing – Fabrics used to support, reinforce and give shape to fashion fabrics in sewn products. Often placed between the lining and the outer fabric., it can be made from yarns or directly from fibers, and may be either woven, nonwoven, or knitted. Some interfacings are designed to be fused (adhered with heat from an iron), while others are meant to be stitched to the fashion fabric. |
| Interlining – An insulation, padding, or stiffening fabric, either sewn to the wrong side of the lining or the inner side of the outer shell fabric. The interlining is used primarily to provide warmth in coats, jackets, and outerwear. |
| Interlock – The stitch variation of the rib stitch, which resembles two separate 1 x 1 ribbed fabrics that are interknitted. Plain (double knit) interlock stitch fabrics are thicker, heavier, and more stable than single knit constructions. |
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| J | Jacquard – Woven fabrics manufactured by using the Jacquard attachment on the loom. This attachment provides versatility in designs and permits individual control of each of the warp yarns. Thus, fabrics of almost any type or complexity can be made. Brocade and damask are types of jacquard woven fabrics. |
| Jacquard Knit – A weft double knit fabric in which a Jacquard type of mechanism is used. This device individually controls needles or small groups of needles, and allows very complex and highly patterned knits to be created. |
| Jersey Fabric – The consistent interlooping of yarns in the jersey stitch to produces a fabric with a smooth, flat face, and a more textured, but uniform back. Jersey fabrics may be produced on either circular or flat weft knitting machines. |
| Jersey Stitch – A basic stitch used in weft knitting, in which each loop formed in the knit is identical. The jersey stitch is also called the plain, felt, or stockinet stitch. |
| Jute – A bast fiber, chiefly from India, used primarily for gunny sacks, bags, cordage, and binding threads in carpets and rugs. |
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| K | Kapok – A short, lightweight, cotton-like, vegetable fiber found in the seed pods of the Bombocaceae tree. Because of its brittle quality, it is generally not spun. However, its buoyancy and moisture resistance makes it ideal for use in cushions, mattresses, and life jackets. |
| Knit Fabric – Fabrics made from only one set of yarns, all running in the same direction. Some knits have their yarns running along the length of the fabric, while others have their yarns running across the width of the fabric. Knit fabrics are held together by looping the yarns around each other. Knitting creates ridges in the resulting fabric. Wales are the ridges that run lengthwise in the fabric; courses run crosswise. |
| Knit-de-knit – A type of yarn texturizing in which a crimped yarn is made by knitting the yarn into a fabric, and then heat-setting the fabric. The yarn is then unraveled from the fabric and used in this permanently crinkled form. |
| Knitting (Circular) – A weft knitting process where the fabric is a tube,.with the threads running continuously around the fabric. Double-knit fabrics are produced on a circular knitting machine equipped with two sets of latch needles situated at right angles to each other. |
| Knitting (Flat or Single) – A weft knitting process where the fabric is in flat form. The threads run back and forth across the fabric. Shape can be added in the knitting process by increasing or decreasing the loops or stitches. Full-fashioned garments are made on a flat-knitting machine. |
| Knitting (Raschel) – A versatile warp knitting made in plain and jacquard patterns; the fabrics are coarser than other warp knits. Raschel knitting machines have one or two sets of latch needles and up to thirty sets of guides that enable them to create a wide range of fabrics. |
| Knitting (Warp) – A type of knitting in which the yarns generally run lengthwise in the fabric. The yarns are prepared as warps on beams. Examples of this type of knitting include tricot, Milanese, and Raschel knitting. |
| Knitting (Weft) – A type of knitting, in which one continuous thread runs crosswise in the fabric making all of the loops in one course. Weft knitting types are circular and flat knitting. |
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| L | Lamb’s Wool – The first clip of wool sheered from lambs up to eight months old. The wool is soft, slippery and resilient. It is used in fine grade woolen fabrics. |
| Lame’ – A woven fabric using flat silver or gold metal threads to create either the design or the background in the fabric. |
| Laminated Fabric – A term used to describe fabrics which have been joined together through the use of a high-strength reinforcing scrim or base fabrics between two plies of flexible thermoplastic film.. It can a bonded utilizing either foam itself, or some other material, such as adhesives, heat, or chemical bonding agents.. See BONDING. |
| Lapel – The part of a garment that is turned back in the front. The front fold on a shirt that is a continuation of the collar. |
| Lapels (padding) – Attaching the lapel to canvas with several rows of blindstitching. |
| Latent Heat – The quantity of heat absorbed or released by a substance undergoing a change of state, such as ice changing to water or water to steam, at constant temperature and pressure. When a solid material is heated and reaches its melting point, it goes from solid to liquid. During this process the material absorbs a certain amount of heat, Despite the heat input, the temperature of the material stays at a relatively constant level, even though phase change is taking place. We thus speak of latent (concealed) heat having been taken up by the material. |
| Lawn – A light, fine cloth made using carded or combed, linen or cotton yarns. The fabric has a crease-resistant, crisp finish. Linen lawn is synonymous with handkerchief linen. Cotton lawn is a similar type of fabric, which can be white, solid colored, or printed. |
| Left-hand twill – Any twill weave which runs from the left. The twill or diagonal line on the face of the fabric will run from the upper left-hand corner to the lower right-hand corner of the fabric. |
| Leight Weight – Having an airy weave. Used as a light weight base layer in apparel for aerobic activities and cool weather. |
| Leno Weave – A construction of woven fabrics in which the resulting fabric is very sheer, yet durable. In this weave, two or more warp yarns are twisted around each other as they are interlaced with the filling yarns; thus securing a firm hold on the filling yarn and preventing them from slipping out of position. Also called the gauze weave. Leno weave fabrics are frequently used for window treatments, because their structure gives good durability with almost no yarn slippage, and permits the passage of light and air. |
| Linen – A fabric made from linen fibers obtained from inside the woody stem of the flax plant. Linen fibers are much stronger and more lustrous than cotton. Linen fabrics are very cool and absorbent, but wrinkle very easily, unless blended with manufactured fibers. Linen is one of the oldest textile fibers. |
| Lining – A fabric that is used to cover the inside of a garment to provide a finished look. Generally, the lining is made of a smooth lustrous fabric. |
| Loft – High loft is thick and fluffy, low loft is thin and dense. The higher the loft, the better the insulation characteristic. |
| Loom – A machine used for weaving fabrics. |
| Loom-Finished – Material sold in the same condition in which the goods came from the loom—duck, webbing, canvas, burlap, etc. |
| Lyocell Fiber – A manufactured fiber composed of regenerated cellulose. Lyocell has a similar hand and drape as rayon, but is stronger, more durable, and in many cases machine washable. It has a subtle luster and is rich in color. Lyocell possesses low shrinkage characteristics, as well as good absorbency and wrinkle resistant qualities. |
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| M | Madras – A lightweight plain weave cotton fabric with a striped, plaid, or checked pattern. A true madras will bleed when washed. This type of fabric is usually imported from India. End-uses are men’s and women’s shirts and dresses. |
| Matelassé – A medium to heavyweight luxury fabric made in a double cloth construction to create a blistered or quilted surface. Common end-uses are upholstery, draperies, and evening dresses. |
| Melton – A heavyweight, dense, compacted, and tightly woven wool or wool blend fabric used mainly for coats. |
| Membrane – A thin, soft material made from a polymer which is laminated to the fabric to provide properties such as strength, water-proofing or wind-proofing to enhance the fabric?s performance. |
| Mercerization – A process of treating a cotton yarn or fabric, in which the fabric or yarn is immersed in a caustic soda solution and later neutralized in acid. The process causes a permanent swelling of the fiber, resulting in an increased luster on the surface of the fabric, an increased affinity for dyes, and increased strength. |
| Merino – A type of wool that originates from pure-bred Merino sheep. The best Merino wool comes from Italy. |
| Mesh – A type of fabric characterized by its net-like open appearance, and the spaces between the yarns. Mesh is available in a variety of constructions including wovens, knits, laces, or crocheted fabrics. |
| Metallic – An inorganic fiber made from minerals and metals, blended and extruded to form fibers. The fiber is formed from a flat ribbon of metal, coated with a protective layer of plastic, which reduces tarnishing. Metal used in apparel fabric is purely decorative. |
| Microclimate – The temperature and humidity of the space between your skin and the base layer of clothing. |
| Micro-encapsulation – A method of enclosing polymer additive materials in microscopic capsules, which can then be released under certain conditions to enhance performance properties. |
| Microfibers/Microdeniers – The name given to ultra-fine manufactured fibers and the name given to the technology of developing these fibers. Fibers made using microfiber technology, produce fibers which weigh less than 1.0 denier. The fabrics made from these extra-fine fibers provide a superior hand, a gentle drape, and incredible softness. Comparatively, microfibers are two times finer than silk, three times finer than cotton, eight times finer than wool, and one hundred times finer than a human hair. Currently, there are four types of microfibers being produced. These include acrylic microfibers, nylon microfibers, polyester microfibers, and rayon microfibers. |
| Microfleece – A soft, luxorous fabric with a velvety feel. |
| Micron – A unit of measure that describes the average staple fiber diameter in a lot of wool. Over he past 30 years, the Micron measurement has evolved to become the predominant term used commercially to describe the fineness of a wool fiber. A Micron is determined by the actual measurement when the wool lots are tested for sale during wool processing. Most wool fibers range in the area of 18-40 micron. Merino wool falls into the 18-24 micron range. The 25-32 micron, medium range wool, is usually defined by the word “Shetland”, and is used in such applications as blankets and knitwear apparel. The 33-40 range Micron usually describes the wool most often used in the carpet industry. |
| Microporous – A coating on a fabric that breathes through microscopic pores. |
| Middle Weight – A weave that is tighter than lightweight, which combines warmth and wickability. |
| Modacrylic Fiber – A manufactured fiber similar to acrylic in characteristics and end-uses. Modacrylics have a higher resistance to chemicals and combustion than acrylic, but also have a lower safe ironing temperature and a higher specific gravity than acrylic. |
| Mohair – Hair fibers from the Angora goat. End-uses include sweaters, coats, suits, and scarves. |
| Moiré/Watermarked – A corded fabric, usually made from silk or one of the manufactured fibers, which has a distinctive water-marked wavy pattern on the face of the fabric. |
| Moisture Regain – The amount of water a completely dry fiber will absorb from the air at a standard condition of 70 degrees F and a relative humidity of 65%. Expressed as a % of the dry fiber weight. |
| Moisture Transport – The movement of water from one side of a fabric to the other, caused by capillary action, wicking, chemical or electrostatic action. |
| Monk’s Cloth – A heavy weight cotton fabric utilizing the basket weave variation of the plain weave. Used for draperies and slip covers, monk’s cloth is an example of 4 x 4 basket weave. It has poor dimensional stability and tends to snag. |
| Monofilament – Any single filament, generally a coarser manufactured fiber. Monofilaments are generally spun individually, rather than being extruded through the spinneret in groups of filaments. Cross-sections may be of various shapes. |
| Monofilament – A single filament of a manufactured fiber, usually made in a denier higher than 14. Monofilaments are usually spun singularly, rather than extruded as a group of filaments through a spinneret and spun into a yarn. End-uses include hosiery and sewing thread. |
| Muslin – An inexpensive, medium weight, plain weave, low count (less than 160 threads per square inch) cotton sheeting fabric. In its unfinished form, it is commonly used in fashion design to make trial garments for preliminary fit. |
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| N | Nainsook – A lightweight plain weave cotton fabric, usually finished to create a luster and a soft hand. Common end-uses are infants’ wear, blouses, and lingerie. |
| Nano-fiber – Nano refers to 1 billionth of a meter, or 1 x 10-8 centimeter. 150,000 strands of a nano-fiber can fit across a human hair. |
| Nano-technology – Complex technology that involves nano-size materials and combines science such as biology, chemistry and physics and engineering. |
| Nap – A fuzzy, fur-like feel created when fiber ends extend from the basic fabric structure to the fabric surface. The fabric can be napped on either one or both sides. |
| Napping – The raising of fibers on the face of the goods by means of teasels or rollers covered with card clothing (steel wires) that are about one inch in height. Action by either method raises the protruding fibers and causes the finished fabric to provide greater warmth to the wearer, makes the cloth more compact, causes the fabric to become softer in hand or smoother in feel, increases durability and covers the minute areas between the interlacings or the warp and the filling. |
| Net – An open mesh fabric of rayon, nylon, cotton, or silk; made in a variety of geometric-shaped meshes of different sizes and weights, matched to various end-uses. The net is made by knotting the intersections of thread or cord to form the mesh. |
| Net – An open fabric, which is created by connecting the intersections in a woven, knitted, or crocheted construction to form a mesh-like appearance that won’t ravel. End-uses include veils, curtains, and fish nets. |
| Ninon – A lightweight, plain weave, made of silk or manufactured fibers, with an open mesh-like appearance. Since the fabric is made with high twist filament yarns, it has a crisp hand. End uses include eveningwear and curtains. |
| Nonwoven Fabric – A textile structure held together by interlocking of fibers in a random web, accomplished by mechanical, chemical, thermal or solvent means. Generally, crimped fibers that range in length from 0.75 to 4.5 inches are used. |
| Novelty Yarn – A yarn that is intentionally produced to have a special or unique effect. These effects can be produced by twisting together uneven single yarns, by using yarns that contain irregularities, or by twisting yarns that contain a color variance. A slubbed yarn is an example of a novelty yarn. |
| Nylon – Produced in 1938, the first completely synthetic fiber developed. Known for its high strength and excellent resilience, nylon has superior abrasion resistance and high flexibility. |
| Nytril – A manufactured fiber, most often used in sweaters or pile fabrics, where little or no pressing is recommended, as the fiber has a low softening or melting point. However, it has also been successfully used in blends with wool for the purpose of minimizing shrinkage and improving the shape retention in garments. |
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| O | Off-pressing – Pressing done after the garment is completely sewn. |
| Olefirn (polyolefin/polypropylene) – A manufactured fiber characterized by its light weight, high strength, and abrasion resistance. Olefin is also good at transporting moisture, creating a wicking action. End-uses include activewear apparel, rope, indoor-outdoor carpets, lawn furniture, and upholstery. |
| Open-shoulder construction – A method used onb better coats that is characterized by hand-sewn lining shoulder seams. |
| Organdy – A stiffened, sheer, lightweight plain weave fabric, with a medium to high yarn count. End-uses include blouses, dresses, and curtains/draperies. |
| Organza – A crisp, sheer, lightweight plain weave fabric, with a medium to high yarn count, made of silk, rayon, nylon, or polyester. The fabric is used primarily in evening and wedding apparel for women. |
| Osnaburg – A tough medium to heavyweight coarsely woven plain weave fabric, usually made of a cotton or cotton/poly blend. Lower grades of the unfinished fabric are used for such industrial purposes as bags, sacks, pipe coverings. Higher grades of finished osnaburg can be found in mattress ticking, slipcovers, workwear, and apparel. |
| Ottoman – A tightly woven plain weave ribbed fabric with a hard slightly lustered surface. The ribbed effect is created by weaving a finer silk or manufactured warp yarn with a heavier filler yarn, usually made of cotton, wool, or waste yarn. In the construction, the heavier filler yarn is completely covered by the warp yarn, thus creating the ribbed effect. End uses for this fabric include coats, suits, dresses, upholstery, and draperies. |
| Outseam – The distance from the bottom of the trouser leg to the top of the pant at the waist. The measurement is taken along the outside leg seam that joins the front and back leg panels, and includes the width of the waistband. |
| Oven – Enclosed heating equipment used by garment manufacturers to apply heat for the purpose of applying heat to a garment to set, or cure (bake), a durable press finish on the article. |
| Oxford – A fine, soft, lightweight woven cotton or blended with manufactured fibers in a 2 x 1 basket weave variation of the plain weave construction. The fabric is used primarily in shirtings. |
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| P | Paisley – A tear-drop shaped, fancy printed pattern, used in dresses, blouses, and men’s ties. |
| Panné Velvet – A type of lustrous, lightweight velvet fabric, usually made of silk or a manufactured fiber, in which the pile has been flattened in one direction. |
| Parachute Fabric – A compactly woven, lightweight fabric comparable with airplane cloth. It is made of silk, nylon, rayon, cotton, or polyester. |
| Peau de Soie – A heavy twill weave drapeable satin fabric, made of silk or a manufactured fiber, and used for bridal gowns and eveningwear. |
| Percale – A medium weight, plain weave, low to medium count (180 to 250 threads per square inch) cotton-like fabric. End-uses include sheets, blouses, and dresses. |
| Performance Fabrics – Fabrics made for a variety of end-use applications, which provide functional qualitites, such as moisture management, UV protection, anti-microbial, thermo-regulation, and wind/water resistance. |
| Permanent Press (Durable Press) – Terms used to describe a garment which has been treated to retain its fresh appearance, crease, and shape throughout the life of the garment, Permanent press can be a misleading description, because no finish is completely permanent. Durable press or crease resistant are the more accepted terms, and are the ones approved by the Federal Trade Commission. |
| Permeability – A textile characteristic which allows air, water, and water vapor to penetrate and pass through it. |
| Perspiration Resistant – A treatment on a fabric which allows a fabric or a dye to resist perspiration. |
| Phase Change Materials – A hydrophilic compound applied to a fiber or fabric which results in superior breathability and a moisture management system within the fabric that helps to maintain a comfortable body temperature when the garment is worn. |
| Pick – A filling yarn that runs crosswise between selveges in woven goods. The pick intersects with the warp (or lengthwise yarn) to form a woven cloth. |
| Pile Fabric – A fabric in which certain yarns project from a foundation texture and form a pile on the surface. Pile yarns may be cut or uncut in the fabric. Corduroy and velveteen are examples of cut filling pile fabrics. |
| Pile Knit – A type of knit construction which utilizes a special yarn or a sliver that is interlooped into a standard knit base. This construction is used in the formation of imitation fur fabrics, in special liners for cold weather apparel such as jackets and coats, and in some floor coverings. While any basic knit stitch may be used for the base of pile knits, the most common is the jersey stitch. |
| Pile Weave – A type of decorative weave in which a pile is formed by additional warp or filling yarns interlaced in such a way that loops are formed on the surface or face of the fabric. The loops may be left uncut, or they may be cut to expose yarn ends and produce cut pile fabric. |
| Pill – A tangled ball of fibers that appears on the surface of a fabric, as a result of wear or continued friction or rubbing on the surface of the fabric. |
| Piping – A narrow tape used to bind seams, or used for decoration. |
| Pique – A knitted fabric that resembles a lightweight Bedford cord, with the wales or cords running in the warpwise or lengthwise direction. |
| Piqué – A medium-weight fabric, either knit or woven, with raised dobby designs including cords, wales, waffles, or patterns. Woven versions have cords running lengthwise, or in the warp direction. Knitted versions are double-knit fabric constructions, created on multi-feed circular knitting machines. |
| Plaid – A pattern consisting of colored bars or stripes which cross each other at right angles, comparable with a Scottish tartan. |
| Plain Edge (Bluff Edge) – A construction in which the edges of the garment are not stitched. |
| Plain Weave – A basic weave, utilizing a simple alternate interlacing of warp and filling yarns. Any type of yarn made from any type of fiber can be manufactured into a plain weave fabric. |
| Plaited Fabric – A narrow fabric made by crossing a number of sturdy yarns diagonally, so each strand passes alternatively over or under one or more of the other stands. Typically used in shoe laces and suspenders. |
| Plaited Yarn – A yarn covered by another yarn. |
| Pleats – A portion of the fabric folded over, and secured by stitching or pressing. |
| Plied Yarn – A twisting together of two or more single yarns in one operation. |
| Plissé – A lightweight, plain weave, fabric, made from cotton, rayon, or acetate, and characterized by a puckered striped effect, usually in the warp direction. The crinkled effect is created through the application of a caustic soda solution, which shrinks the fabric in the areas of the fabric where it is applied. Plissé is similar in appearance to seersucker. End-uses include dresses, shirtings, pajamas, and bedspreads. |
| Ply – Two or more yarns that have been twisted together. An automobile tire fabric yarn may be 9, 10, or 11 ply. |
| Pocket (patch) – A pocket attached to the outside of the garment and constructed of self-fabric. |
| Pocket (quarter) – The angle from the side seam. |
| Pocket (rule) – A patch pocket attached on the outseam, halfway betweeen the hip and the knee of the garment; usually found on coveralls. |
| Pocket (serged) – A pocket formed by joining two pieces of fabric and joining the edges with safety-stitching. |
| Pocket (slash) – A pocket that must be entered through a slash on the garment. The pocket pouch is suspended from and attached to the slash. |
| Pocket (stitch and turn) – Formed when two pieces of fabric are joined along the edges and turned so that the raw seam margin is inside of the finished pocket. |
| Pocket (stitched/topstitched) – The same as stitch and turn pocket, except with an added row of stitching along the folded edges. |
| Pocket (swing) – The pocket pouch is suspended from and attached to the pocket opening. |
| Pocket Facing – A piece of shell (outer) material super-imposed on the top of the pocket material at its opening to conceal the lining. |
| Polyester – A manufactured fiber introduced in the early 1950s, and is second only to cotton in worldwide use. Polyester has high strength (although somewhat lower than nylon), excellent resiliency, and high abrasion resistance. Low absorbency allows the fiber to dry quickly. |
| Polymer – A high molecular weight structure, which makes up the substance from which manufactured fibers are produced. The fiber is created by linking together the chain-like molecular units called monomers. |
| Polypropylene (Olefin or Polyolefin – A manufactured fiber characterized by its light weight, high strength, and abrasion resistance. Polypropylene is also good at transporting moisture, creating a wicking action. End-uses include activewear apparel, rope, indoor-outdoor carpets, lawn furniture, and upholstery. |
| Pongee – The most common form is a naturally colored lightweight, plain weave, silk-like fabric with a slubbed effect. End-uses include blouses, dresses, etc. |
| Poplin – A fabric made using a rib variation of the plain weave. The construction is characterized by having a slight ridge effect in one direction, usually the filling. Poplin used to be associated with casual clothing, but as the “world of work” has become more relaxed, this fabric has developed into a staple of men’s wardrobes, being used frequently in casual trousers. |
| Post-Cure – A type of durable press finish in which the finish is applied to the fabric by the mill, but the garment manufacturer completes the cure of the finish by applying heat, using an oven, or press, or both to the completed garment. |
| Pre-Cure – A finishing treatment in which the durable press finish is applied to the fabric and set, or cured, through the use of heat at the mill, prior to shipment of the fabric to the garment manufacturer. |
| Pre-Shrunk – Fabrics which have received a treatment, which causes shrinking. Often done on cottons before cutting the fabric in order to remove the tendency for shrinkage in the finished garment. The percent of residual shrinkage must be indicated on the label of the treated goods or garments. |
| Press – 1. A device that uses heat and pressure to remove wrinkles and creases and smooth fabrics during garment construction. 2. A device used to press or compress raw materials. 3. To iron in the home or commercial laundry. 4. To squeeze liquid out of a fabric through the use of roller presses. |
| PTFE Fabric – A fabric made from Polytetrafluoroethylene, such as Gore-Tex. |
| Pucker – The uneven surface caused by differential shrinkage in the two layers of a bonded fabric during processing, dry cleaning, or washing. |
| Purl Stitch – A basic stitch used in weft knitting, which produces knit fabrics that have the same appearance on both sides. The purl stitch is frequently used in combination with the jersey and rib stitches to produce a knitted fabric design. Sweaters, knitted fabrics for infants and children’s wear, knitted fabrics for specialized sportswear, and bulky knit fabrics are commonly made using the purl stitch. |
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| Q | Quilting – A fabric construction in which a layer of down or fiberfill is placed between two layers of fabric, and then held in place by stitching or sealing in a regular, consistent, all-over pattern on the goods. |
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| R | Ramie – A bast fiber, similar to flax, taken from the stalk of a plant grown in China. |
| Raschel Knit – A warp knitted fabric in which the resulting knit fabric resembles hand crocheted fabrics, lace fabrics, and nettings. Raschel warp knits contain inlaid connecting yarns in addition to columns of knit stitches. |
| Rayon – A manufactured fiber composed of regenerated cellulose, derived from wood pulp, cotton linters, or other vegetable matter. Today, various names for rayon fibers are taken from different manufacturing processes. The two most commonly used production methods for rayon are the cuprammonium process and the viscose process. |
| Repellency – The ability of a fabric to resist such things as wetting and staining by water, stains, soil, etc. |
| Resiliency – The ability of a fabric to spring back to its original shape after being twisted, crushed, wrinkled, or distorted in any way. |
| Resin – The name commonly applied to synthetic chemical compounds polymerized on the fabric or yarn to give wash-and-wear and durable press properties, crush resistance, dimentional stability, and hand to fabrics. |
| Resin-Treated – A finishing process associated with the application of synthetic chemical compounds to the fabric to provide wrinkle-resistance, wash-and-wear characteristics, or an improved hand. |
| Rib Knit – A basic stitch used in weft knitting in which the knitting machines require two sets of needles operating at right angles to each other. Rib knits have a very high degree of elasticity in the crosswise direction. This knitted fabric is used for complete garments and for such specialized uses as sleeve bands, neck bands, sweater waistbands, and special types of trims for use with other knit or woven fabrics. Lightweight sweaters in rib knits provide a close, body-hugging fit. |
| Rib Weave – One of the plain weave variations, which is formed by using: 1) heavy yarns in the warp or filling direction, or 2) a substantially higher number of yarns per inch in one direction than in the other, or 3) several yarns grouped together as one. Rib fabrics are all characterized by having a slight ridge effect in one direction, usually the filling. Such fabrics may have problems with yarn slippage, abrasion resistance, and tear strength. Examples of this construction include broadcloth, poplin, taffeta, faille, shantung, and cord fabric. |
| Ribbon – A fillet or narrow woven fabric of varying widths, commonly one-quarter to three inches, having selvage edges, chiefly or rayon, silk, or velvet, and used for braiding, decoration, trimmings, etc. |
| Rickrack – Flat braid in a zig-zag formation. Made from several types if fibers, it is used for many kinds of trimming on apparel. |
| Ring Spinning – A system of spinning, using a ring spinning frame that drafts the roving, twists the yarn, and winds it on the bobbin continuously and simultaneously on one operation. Modern ring frames are suitable for spinning all counts up to 150s. |
| Rip-stop Nylon – A lightweight, wind resistant, and water resistant plain weave fabric. Large rib yarns stop tears without adding excess weight to active sportswear apparel and outdoor equipment such as sleeping bags and tents. |
| Rise – The length of trouser from the top of the waistband at the fly opening, around the crotch, to the top of the back waistband at the center. |
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| S | Sailcloth – Any heavy, plain-weave canvas fabric, usually made of cotton, linen, polyester, jute, nylon, etc. that is used for sails and apparel (i.e. bottomweight sportswear). |
| Sanforized – Registered trademark of Cluett, Peabody & Co. for fabrics processed by machine so that residual shrinkage will not exceed 1% in either direction (according to the U.S.?s standard wash test CCC-T-191a),, despite repeated washings. |
| Saran Fiber – A manufactured fiber which has an excellent resistance to sunlight and weathering, and is used in lawn furniture, upholstery, and carpets. |
| Sateen Fabric – A fabric made from yarns with low luster, such as cotton or other staple length fibers. The fabric has a soft, smooth hand and a gentle, subtle luster. Sateen fabrics are often used for draperies and upholstery. |
| Sateen Weave – A variation of the satin weave, produced by floating fill yarns over warp yarns. |
| Satin Fabric – A traditional fabric utilizing a satin weave construction to achieve a lustrous fabric surface. Satin is a traditional fabric for evening and wedding garments. Typical examples of satin weave fabrics include: slipper satin, crepe-back satin, faille satin, bridal satin, moleskin, and antique satin. |
| Satin Weave – A basic weave, characterized by long floats of yarn on the face of the fabric. The yarns are interlaced in such a manner that there is no definite, visible pattern of interlacing and, in this manner, a smooth and somewhat shiny surface effect is achieved. The shiny surface effect is further increased through the use of high luster filament fibers in yarns which also have a low amount of twist. A true satin weave fabric always has the warp yarns floating over filling yarns. |
| Saxony – Originally a high grade coating fabric made from Saxony merino wool raised in Germany. |
| Schiffli Embroidery – Originated in Switzerland, the word, Schiffli, means “boat”, identifiable with the boat-shaped shuttle used in the frame. The lace effect is made by embroidering the motifs on a net ground. |
| Seam (book/booking) – The raw edge hem done on a blindstitch machine, usually sewn in the side ans back seam outlets, and on the bottom turn-up. |
| Seam (french) – A closure between two pieces of material, made by stitching,turning, and restitching, so as to conceal all raw edges. |
| Seam (open gorge) – Both the collar and the facing are turned under, basted, and then the seam is felled (edges folded together) from the outside. |
| Seam (raised) – A seam resulting after two pieces of fabric have been joined; one piece is folded back, and a second row of stitching is placed adjacent to the folded edge. |
| Seamless Knitting – A unique process of circular knitting, done on either Santoni or Sangiacomo knitting machines. This circular knitting process essentially produces finished garments with no side seams, which require only minimal sewisng to complete the garment. Seamless knitting can transform yarn into complete garments in a fraction of the time it takes for traditional garment manufacturing, by minimizing the traditional labor-intensive steps of sutting and sewing. |
| Seamless Technology – This term can refer to either “seamless knitting” (See Seamless Knitting), or “welding/bonding technology”, which uses a bonding agent to attach two pieces of fabric together, and eliminates the need for sewing threads. (See welding.) |
| Seat – The circumference of a pant, measured perpendicular to the fly opening and from the base of the fly. |
| Seersucker – A woven fabric which incorporates modification of tension control. In the production of seersucker, some of the warp yarns are held under controlled tension at all times during the weaving, while other warp yarns are in a relaxed state and tend to pucker when the filling yarns are placed. The result produces a puckered stripe effect in the fabric. Seersucker is traditionally made into summer sportswear such as shirts, trousers, and informal suits. |
| Self-goods – When the same material is used as a pocket lining, or in a waistband, collar and fly construction. Also called shell. |
| Selvage or Selvedge – The thin compressed edge of a woven fabric which runs parallel to the warp yarns and prevents raveling. It is usually woven, utilizing tougher yarns and a tighter construction than the rest of the fabric. |
| Serge – A fabric with a smooth hand that is created by a two-up, two-down twill weave. |
| Serging – An overcasting technique done on the cut edge of a fabric to prevent raveling. |
| Shantung – A medium-weight, plain weave fabric, characterized by a ribbed effect, resulting from slubbed yarns used in the warp or filling direction. End-uses include dresses and suits. |
| Sharkskin – A hard-finished, low lustered, medium-weight fabric in a twill-weave construction. It is most commonly found in men’s worsted suitings; however, it can also be found in a plain-weave construction of acetate, triacetate, and rayon for women’s sportswear. |
| Shell – A fabric from which the garment is made. |
| Shuttle – The boat-like devise on weaving machines, which carries the filling yarn wound on the bobbin. The shuttle moves from the shuttle box on one side of the loom, through the shed, and onto the shuttle box at the other side of the loom. |
| Side Opening – An opening created by the facing tacked onto the swing pockets. It allows the wearer access to his trouser pockets. Typically found on coveralls. |
| Silk – A natural filament fiber produced by the silkworm in the construction of its cocoon. Most silk is collected from cultivated worms; Tussah silk, or wild silk, is a thicker, shorter fiber produced by worms in their natural habitat. All silk comes from Asia, primarily China. |
| Singeing – Process of burning off protruding fibers from fabrics to give the fabric a smooth surface. |
| Sisal – A strong bast fiber that originates from the leaves of the Agave plant, which is found in the West Indies, Central America, and Africa. End-uses include cordage and twine. |
| Sizing – The application of a size mixture to warp yarn. The purpose of this is to make the yarn smoother and stronger to withstand the strain of weaving, to provide an acceptable hand in the woven gray goods, and to increase fabric weight. |
| Sleeve Length – The sleeves measured from the center of the neckline in the back to the end of the sleeve or cuff. |
| Sleeve Tacking – Stitches which attach the sleeve to the lining along the sleeve inseams and elbow seams. |
| Sleeve Vent – A finished slit or opening in the sleeve. Vents are usually secured by snaps or buttons at the base of the cuff. |
| Sliver – A continuous bundle of loosely assembled untwisted fibers. These are fibers that are drawn from the card by the drawing frames, and are eventually twisted into a yarn during the sliver knitting process. |
| Sliver Knitting – A type of circular knitting in which a high pile fabric is knitted by the drawing-in of the sliver by the knitting needles. |
| Smart Textiles – Textiles that can sense and react to changes in the environment, such as changes from mechanical , thermal, chemical, magnetic and other sources. |
| Soft Shell – Soft shell fabrics combine the benefits of hard shell fabrics with a breathable, flexible, comfortable fabric. Stretch wovens with a DWR treatment. |
| Soil Release – A finish that has the purpose of increasing the absorbency of a fabric. on durable press blends. The finish allows the stain to leave the fabric faster, increases the wicking action for improved comfort, and therefore imparts greater ease in cleaning. Some soil release finishes also provide resistance to soiling as well as ease of soil removal. |
| Solution-dyed – A type of fiber dyeing in which colored pigments are injected into the spinning solution prior to the extrusion of the fiber through the spinneret. Fibers and yarns colored in this manner are color-fast to most destructive agents. |
| Spacer Fabric – Two separate fabrics faces knitted independently and then connected by a separate spacer yarn. These fabrics can be produced on both circular and flat knitting machines. Spacer fabrics have the properties of good breathability, crush resistance, and a 3D appearance. |
| Spandex Fiber – A manufactured elastomeric fiber that can be repeatedly stretched over 500% without breaking, and will still recover to its original length. |
| SPF (Sun Protection Factor) – SPF measures the effectiveness of sunscreen on the body. the test for SPF is done by using a living organism or body to measure the length of time it takes for the skin to redden without coverage or protection. |
| Spinneret – A metal nozzle type device with very fine holes used in the spinning process of manufactured fibers. The spinning solution is forced or extruded through the small holes to form continuous filament fibers. The holes in the spinneret can vary in diameter to produce fibers of various denier. |
| Spinning – This final operation in the production of a natural yarn, consists of of the drawing, twisting, and the winding of the newly spun yarn onto a device such as a bobbin, spindle, cop, tube, cheese, etc. In manufactured fibers, the spinning process is the extrusion of a spinning solution into a coagulation bath, a heated air chamber, or a cooling area in order to form a continuous filament or tow. |
| Sponging – A pre-shrinkage process which involves the dampening with a sponge to woolen and worsted fabrics. The process is accomplished by rolling in moist muslin, or by steaming. This procedure is performed at the fabric mill prior to cutting to insure against a contraction of the material in the garment. |
| Spot Weave – A woven construction in which patterns are built in at spaced intervals through the use of extra warp and/or extra fill yarns are placed in selected areas. These yarns are woven into the fabric by means of a dobby or Jacquard attachment. |
| Spun Yarn – A yarn made by taking a group of short staple fibers, which have been cut from the longer continuous filament fibers, and then twisting these short staple fibers together to form a single yarn, which is then used for weaving or knitting fabrics. |
| Stain Repellent – The ability of a fabric to resist wetting and staining by water. |
| Stain Resistance – A fiber or fabric property of resisting spots and stains. |
| Staple Fibers – Short fibers, typically ranging from 1/2 inch up to 18 inches long. Wool, cotton, and flax exist only as staple fibers. Manufactured staple fibers are cut to a specific length from the continuous filament fiber. Usually the staple fiber is cut in lengths ranging from 1-1/2 inches to 8 inches long. A group of staple fibers are twisted together to form a yarn, which is then woven or knit into fabrics. |
| Stay – A piece of fabric used to hold another piece of fabric in place, or to add strength to a seam or tack. |
| Stitch (Backstitch) – Used at the beginning and end of stitching to reinforce and prevent raveling. Also called backtack or stay-stitch. |
| Stitch (Baste) – A stitching which holds the fabric in place until permanent stitching has been completed. |
| Stitch (Blind) – A stich that is not visible on one side of the fabric. |
| Stitch (Chain/Class 100) – A stitch formed with one or more needle threads, the look=ps of which are passed through the material and through the loops of the preceding threads. |
| Stitch (Contrasting) – When the stitching thread contrasts the garment color. |
| Stitch (Dbl. lock/class 400 – A stitch formed with two or more groups of threads that interlace each other. The loops of needle thread are passed through the material where they are secured by looper threads; no bobbins used. This stitching ravels in one direction. |
| Stitch (Flat seam/class 600) – Multi-needle stitches that provide the elasticity necessary for knits. |
| Stitch (hand/class 200) – A stitch formed by hand with one or more needles—one thread per needle passing in and out of the material. |
| Stitch (Lock/class 300) – A stitch formed with two or more groups of threads that interface each other. The loops of needle threads are passed through the material where they are secured by bobbin threads. |
| Stitch (overedge/class 500) – A stitch formed with one or more groups of threads at least one of which passes around the edge of the material. |
| Stitch (safety) – A combination chain-stitch and overedge stitch made simultaneously on the same sewing machine. |
| Stitch (Top) – A second row of stitching close to the edge of a seam, after two or more pieces of fabric have been sewed together and turned to bury the raw seam margin side. |
| Stitch (Zig-zag) – A stitch made on a sewing machine in which the needle bar comes down alternately on the right and left side of an imaginary center line. Also refers to the type of machine producing this stitch. |
| Storm Shell – Wind proof, wind resistant outerwear. |
| Stretch Yarns – Continuous filament synthetic yarns that have been altered through special treatments or modification to give them elasticity. Techniques include: twisting and untwisting, use of air jets, stuffer boxes, knife blades, crimping, heat setting, curling, steaming, or looping. Use of these yarns gives fabrics a degree of elasticity and comfort. |
| Substrate – Fabric on which coatings or other fabrics are applied; a support. |
| Super Light Weight – Term used to describe a fabric used in outerwear, which allows for a minimum pack volume and weight. These lightweight, packable garments offer the most versatile weather protection. Some of these fabrics have a protection layer on the membrane, which provides durability. This means that the garments made from the extra lightweight fabrics need no separate lining. |
| Surah – A light weight, lustrous twill weave constructed fabric with a silk-like hand. Surah is the fabric of ties, dresses, and furnishings. It is available in silk, polyester, and rayon. |
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| T | Taffeta – >A lustrous, medium weight, plain weave fabric with a slight ribbed appearance in the filling (crosswise) direction. For formal wear, taffeta is a favorite choice. It provides a crisp hand, with lots of body. Silk taffeta gives the ultimate rustle, but other fibers are also good choices. |
| Tape – Fabric sewn to a garment at the front edges, armholes, shoulder, neck, sideseams, vents, bottoms, gorge seams, etc. It is usually designed to prevent distortion of a fabric edge or seam. |
| Tapestry – A heavy, often hand-woven, ribbed fabric, featuring an elaborate design depicting a historical or current pictorial display. The weft-faced fabric design is made by using colored filling yarns, only in areas where needed, that are worked back and forth over spun warp yarns, which are visible on the back. End-uses include wall hangings and upholstery. |
| Tear Strength – The force necessary to tear a fabric, measured by the force necessary to start or continue a tear in a fabric. Expressed in pounds or in grams, the most commonly used method for determining the tear strength is the Elmendorf tear test procedure. |
| Tensile Strength (Breaking Stregth) – The strength shown by a fiber, yarn, or fabric to resist breaking under pressure. It is the actual number of pounds of resistance that a fabric will give before the material is broken on the testing machine. |
| Tension Control Weave – A type of decorative weave, characterized by a puckered effect which occurs because the tension in the warp yarns is intentionally varied before the filling yarns are placed in the fabric. |
| Terry Cloth – A typical uncut pile weave fabric. This fabric is formed by using two sets of warp yarns. One set of warp yarns is under very little tension; when the filling yarns are packed into place, these loose yarns are pushed backward along with the filling yarns, and loops are formed. Typical uses include towels, robes, and apparel. |
| Terry Velour – A pile weave cotton fabric with an uncut pile on one side and a cut pile on the reverse side. Terry velour is valued for its soft, luxurious hand. Typical uses include towels, robes, and apparel. |
| Textured Yarns – The yarns that result after undegoing the texturizing process, which can create crimping, looping, and otherwise modify the filament yarn for the purpose of increasing cover, abrasion resistance, insulation, warmth resilience, or moisture absorption, and to provide a different surface texture. When filament yarns are texturized, and then woven or knitted into fabrics, the result is that the finished fabric?s properties resemble a fabric that has been made from a spun yarn. Most of today’s filament polyester is texturized. |
| Texturizing – A process performed on specialized machinery which create bulk, stretch to the yarn, and therefore creates new aesthetics to the finished fabric. |
| Thermal Insulation – The ability of a fabric to retain heat. |
| Thermoregulation – The ability to maintain a constant temperature independent of dynamic (changing) environmental conditions. |
| Thread Count – The number of ends and picks per inch in a woven cloth; the number of wales and courses per inch in a knit fabric. See “Count of Cloth”. |
| Ticking – A tightly woven, very durable fabric, usually made of cotton, and used for covering mattresses, box springs, pillows, and work clothes. The fabric can be made by using a plain, satin, or twill weave construction. |
| Ticking – Compactly woven cotton cloth used for containers, covers for mattresses and pillows, sportswear (hickory stripes), institution fabric, and work clothes. It is striped cloth, usually white background with blue or brown stripes in the motif. |
| Tow – A large bundle of manufactured filament fiber as they are extruded from the spinerette, and before they have been cut into staple fibers. |
| Triacetate – A manufactured fiber, which like acetate, is made by modifying cellulose. However, even more acetate groups have been added to create this fiber. Triacetate is less absorbent and less sensitive to high temperatures than acetate. It can be hand or machine washed and tumble dried, with relatively good wrinkle recovery. |
| Tricot Knit – A warp knit fabric in which the fabric is formed by interlooping adjacent parallel yarns. The warp beam holds thousands of yards of yarns in a parallel arrangement, and these yarns are fed into the knitting area simultaneously. Sufficient yarns to produce the final fabric width and length are on the beam. Tricot knits are frequently used in women’s lingerie items such as slips, bras, panties, and nightgowns. |
| Trim-cut – Tapered and tailored, or a form-fitting garment. |
| Trunk – Double the length of a coverall, from the center of the neckhole at the back to the point of the leg separation on the seat seam. |
| Tulle – A lightweight, extremely fine, machine-made netting, usually with a hexagon shaped mesh effect. End-uses include dance costumes and veils. |
| Turning – The reversing of two or more pieces of material that are seamed together for pressing or topstitching. |
| Tweed – A medium to heavy weight, fluffy, woolen, twill weave fabric containing colored slubbed yarns. Common end-uses include coats and suits. |
| Twill Weave – A basic weave in which the fabrics are constructed by interlacing warp and filling yarns in a progressive alternation which creates a diagonal effect on the face, or right side, of the fabric. In some twill weave fabrics, the diagonal effect may also be seen clearly on the back side of the fabric. |
| Twist – A term that applies to the number of turns and the direction that two yarns are turned during the manufacturing process. The yarn twist brings the fibers close together and makes them compact. It helps the fibers adhere to one another, increasing yarn strength. The direction and amount of yarn twist helps determine appearance, performance, durability of both yarns and the subsequent fabric or textile product. Single yarns may be twisted to the right (S twist) or to the left (Z twist). Generally, woolen and worsted yarns are S-twist, while cotton and flax yarns are typically Z-twist. Twist is generally expressed as turns per inch (tpi), turns per meter (tpm), or turns per centimeter (tpc). |
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| U | U.L. Down – Ultra Light Down is used in women’s and men’s jackets. the concept is to make the lightest and warmest insulation layer available. U.L. Down jackets weigh less than a tee-shirt, blocks more wind, is warmer than even the heavist fleece jackets, and compress to the size of a water bottle. This outerwear can be used when warmth is critical, minimal weight is paramount, and space is at a premium. |
| Ultra-Light Weight – Term used to describe a fabric used in outerwear, which allows for a minimum pack volume and weight. Lightweight packable garments offer the most versatile weather protection. Some of these fabrics have a protective layer on the membrane, which provides durability. This means that the garments made from extra lightweight fabrics need no separate lining. |
| Under-press – To press the underside of a garment section during manufacturing to open the seams and give it shape. |
| UPF (Ultraviolet Protection Factor) – The UPF rating indicates how effective a fabric is at blocking out solar ultraviolet radiation from reaching the skin. UPF ratings range from 15 to 50 with higher ratings indicating more effective blocking and therefore better protection for the wearer of a garment. Fabrics that test higher than UPF 50 are rated as UPF50+. UPF testing involves exposing a fabric to ultraviolet radiation (UVR) and measuring how much is tranmitted through the sample. Different wave-lengths of radiation in the UVR spectrum have different effects on human skin and this is taken into consideration when calculating the UPF rating. Factors that contribute to the UPF rating of a fabric are: *Composition of the yarns (cotton, polyester, etc) *Tightness of the weave or the knit (tighter improves the rating) *Color (darket colors are generally better) *Stretch (more stretch lowers the rating) *Moisture (many fabrics have lower ratings when wet) *Condition (worn and faded garments may have reduced ratings) *Finishing (some fabrics are treated with UV absorbing chemicals) |
| UV Degradation – The breaking down of fibers or fabrics when exposed to ultraviolet rays. |
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| V | Velour – A medium weight, closely woven fabric with a thick pile. It can be made using either a plain weave or a satin weave construction. It resembles velvet, but has a lower cut pile. End uses include apparel, upholstery, and drapes. |
| Velvet – A medium weight cut-pile constructed fabric in which the cut pile stands up very straight. It is woven using two sets of warp yarns; the extra set creates the pile. Velvet, a luxurious fabric, is commonly made with a filament fiber for high luster and smooth hand. |
| Velveteen – A cotton cut-pile weave fabric, utilizing extra fill yarn construction, with either a twill or a plain weave back. The fabric is woven with two sets of filling yarns; the extra set creates the pile. |
| Virgin Wool – New wool that has never been used before, or reclaimed from any spun, woven, knitted, felted, manufactured or used products. |
| Viscose – The most common type of rayon. It is produced in much greater quantity than cuprammonium rayon, the other commercial type. |
| Voile – A crisp, lightweight, plain weave cotton-like fabric, made with high twist yarns in a high yarn count construction. Similar in appearance to organdy and organza. Used in blouses dresses and curtains. |
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| W | Waistband (one-piece) – A single thickness of fabric that is doubled and stitched to the top of a pant. |
| Waistband (Two-piece) – When two identical pieces of fabric are placed back-to-back at the top of a pant, raw edges turned inside, and joined with two widely spaced rows of stitching. the pant body is inserted betweeen and along one edge. |
| Warmth to Weight Ratio – A measurement used to evaluate the effectiveness of an insulated product in relation to weather conditions and the environment. The insulation with the best rating is down. Down provides the best warmth to weight ratio over almost any other insulation material, which is why you will see down garments and sleeping bags as the primary choice for use in almost every high altitude, cold weather expedition. |
| Warp – In woven fabric, the yarns that run lengthwise and is interwoven with the fill (weft) yarns. |
| Warp Knit – A type of knitted fabric construction in which the yarns are formed into stitches in a lengthwise manner. Warp knits are generally less elastic than weft knits. Common examples of warp knits are tricot knits and raschel knits. |
| Washable – Materials that will not fade or shrink during washing or laundering. Labels should be read by the consumer to assure proper results. Do not confuse with “wash-and-wear”. |
| Wash-and-Wear – Ability of a garment to be washed by hand or in a washing machine and require little or no ironing. Also referred to as “easy care”. |
| Watch Pocket – A small pocket in the garment, typically located just below the front waistband of men’s trousers and used to accomodate change or a pocket watch. |
| Water Repellent – Fabrics that have been treated with a finish which cause them to shed water and resist water penetration, but are still air-permeable. Treatments can include wax coatings, resins, silicones, and fluorine derivatives. Such treatments do not close the pours of the fabric, while waterproof finishes do. |
| Water Repellent – A term applied to fabrics that have been treated with a finish which causes them to shed water, but are still air-permeable. |
| Water Resistant – A degree by which water is able to penetrate a fabric. Not to be confused with water-repellent. However, the terms are often used interchangeably. |
| Waterproof – Materials that are impermeable by water. |
| Waterproof – A term applied to fabrics whose pores have been closed, and therefore, will not allow water or air to pass through them. |
| Weaving – The process of forming a fabric on a loom by interlacing the warp (lengthwise yarns) and the filling (crosswise yarns) perpendicular to each other. Filling is fed into the goods from cones, filling bobbins or quills, which carry the filling yarns through the shed of the loom. Filling may also be inserted into the material without the use of a shuttle, as in the case of a shuttleless loom. The three basic weaves are Plain, Twill, and Satin. All other weaves, no matter how intricate, employ one or more of these basic weaves in their composition. Variations on the basic weaves make a variety of different fabric surfaces and fabric strengths. |
| Weft – In woven fabric, the filling yarns that run perpendicular to the warp yarns. |
| Weft Knit – A type of knitted fabric in which yarns are formed into stitches in widthwise manner. Common examples of weft knits are circular knits and flat knits. |
| Weight of Cloth – This term describes the variety of ways that fabric is sold: Ounces per linear yard, Yards per pound, and Ounces per square yard. |
| Welded Shell – The outer layer of a bonded wor welded garment, such as a jacket. |
| Welding – There are two basic methods for applying bonding or welded seams. The first method uses an adhesive film, and the application of heat to glue or laminate two substrates together. The second method involves gluing or attaching two fabrics, using ultrasonic technology. The creation and channeling of high frequency vibratory waves cause a rapid buildup of heat in synthetic fabrics to create the bonding. |
| Welt – 1. A strip of material seamed to a pocket opening as a finishing, as well as a strengthening device. 2. A raised or swelled lap or seam. 3. A covered cord or ornamental strip sewed on a border or along a seam. 4. In knitting, it is flat-knitted separately and then joined to the fabric by looping or hand knitting, as the heel to the stocking. 5. A ribbed piece of knit goods used in forming the end of a sleeve or sock to prevent rolling or raveling. |
| Welt Lining – Interlining for pocket welts. |
| Whipcord – A woven fabric with a very steep and compacted twill appearance on the face of the goods. End-uses for the fabric include dress woolens, worsteds, or wool blends, and many types of uniforms. |
| White Goods – A very broad term which implies any goods bleached and finished in the white condition. Some of the cotton white goods are muslin, cambric, dimity, lawn, longcloth, organdy, voile, etc. |
| White-on-White – Some fabrics, such as men’s shirtings or broadcloth, poplin, madras, etc., are made on a dobby or jacquard loom so the white motifs will appear on a white background. |
| Wickability – The ability of a fiber or a fabric to disperse moisture and allow it to pass through to the surface of the fabric, so that evaporation can take place. |
| Wicking – Dispersing or spreading of moisture or liquid through a given area by capillary action in a material. |
| Wigwan – A converted cotton cloth, dyed black, brown or gray, and given a firm starched, plain calender finish, and used for interlinings in men’s and boys’s clothing to give body to the garment. |
| Wind Resistant – The ability of a fabric to act against or oppose the penetration of wind or air, but it is not totally windproof. |
| Windproof – The ability of a fabric to be nonpermeable to wind and air. |
| Woof – Comes from the Anglo-Saxon “owef”. It is another name for the warp or warp yarn. Sometimes in advertising textiles, the word has been used to imply filling yarn, and made to interchange with the other term, weft. |
| Wool – Usually associated with fiber or fabric made from the fleece of sheep or lamb. However, the term “wool” can also apply to all animal hair fibers, including the hair of the Cashmere or Angora goat or the specialty hair fibers of the camel, alpaca, llama, or vicuna. |
| Worsted Fabric – A tightly woven fabric made by using only long staple, combed wool or wool-blend yarns. The fabric has a hard, smooth surface. Gabardine is an example of a worsted fabric. A common end use is men’s tailored suits. |
| Worsted System – The textile process of manufacturing spun yarns from staple fibers usually over 3 inches in length. The main operations are carding, combing, drafting, and spinning. |
| Woven Fabric – Fabrics composed of two sets of yarns. One set of yarns, the warp, runs along the length of the fabric. The other set of yarns, the fill or weft, is perpendicular to the warp. Woven fabrics are held together by weaving the warp and the fill yarns over and under each other. |
| Wrinkle Free – A resistant to wrinkling created through the use of a variety of finishes and treatments. |
| Wrinkle Recovery – Similar to resiliency. It is the ability of a fabric to bounce back after it has been twisted, wrinkled, or distorted in any way. |
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| Y | Yarn – A continuous strand of textile fibers created when a cluster of individual fibers are twisted together. These long yarns are used to create fabrics, either by knitting or weaving. |
| Yoke (self) – The entire back of a garment is one piece and has a single yoke superimposed on the outside. |
| Yoke (Two-pierce) – Two identical pieces of fabric are joined to a shortened back piece to produce the total back. |
| Yokeless Shirt – The front and backs of a shirt are joined without a yoke facing. |
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| Z | Zipper – The physical parts of the zipper are: scoop teeth, chain, lock, pull tape, and slider. Zippers used in industrial clothing are metal or brass. Plastic zippers are used typical apparel garments. Zippers are used as a closure in pants, skirts, and dresses. |
Socks & Hosiery information 